The D/A UK guide to Colombo

The Wallawwa is a tropical oasis of calm, conveniently located a 20-minute drive from Colombo’s international airport. A popular spot when flying in or out of Sri Lanka, this lush estate also provides an ideal retreat from the capital’s high-octave energy. Part of Teardrop Hotels, the boutique hotel group that manages eight uniquely designed properties across the country, Wallawwa is a meticulously restored example of Sri Lanka’s 18th century manor houses (walauwa in Sinhala), filled with Dutch colonial furniture and once the home of the Chieftain of Galle. Enveloped in a jungle soundscape, relaxation comes easy, whether playing Carrom board on the terrace or dipping into the palm-tree fringed pool.

Colombo’s original homeware store, Paradise Road, is legendary. Founded by design entrepreneur Udayshanth Fernando in the late eighties, it united local craft with a monochrome style vision, to become the first concept store in the city. Recently, it added a new location at 138 Galle Road, giving the popular lifestyle brand a contemporary makeover. On the ground floor, furniture, dinnerware and objet d’art, are beautifully displayed. Upstairs, there is an off-shoot of PR, the boutique run by Fernando’s daughter Annika Fernando. She is also one of Sri Lanka’s most coveted interior designers – hospitality projects include beachfront hotel Kumu Beach, and private rentable villas such as the breathtaking Leyn Baan No 77 in Galle. PR offers limited edition pieces curated exclusively for the space by local designers. Art lovers will enjoy the latest exhibitions by PRSFG, a merger of Annika’s sister Saskia’s internationally acclaimed Saskia Fernando Gallery with Paradise Road Galleries.

In an unassuming mall, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art surprises with conceptual genius. The current exhibition, “Total Landscaping” running until May 2025, examines ‘landscapes’ through multiple mediums. An immersive installation, including sound work, filmmaking and photography – including an illustration by Barbara Sansoni and images by her son Dominic Sansoni – takes visitors on a journey to dive deep into Sri Lanka’s troubled history of occupation and civil war. The show reveals layers of a rich artistry, defined by solidarity, pain and memory. The MMCA is run by Sharmini Pereira, a dedicated visionary on a mission to find a permanent space for the museum to further nurture Sri Lanka’s creative talent. The simple fact the current temporary home of the MMCA doesn’t have doors, is symbolic for its commitment to make art more accessible for local communities.

Tucked away at the back of a pedestrianised lane off Park Street Mews, Monsoon welcomes guests to mix and match Asia’s best flavours. The fusion restaurant charms with stylishly presented taste sensations from Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand, with Sri Lankan spices woven in, too. The wooden interior is punctuated by colourful artworks, the airy, open space an ideal hangout over lunch or for a casual dinner with friends and family. Here they serve the island’s famous King coconut chilled with lime, making its nutritional benefits even more refreshing. Drivers can easily park out back.

Geoffrey Bawa, Sri Lanka’s pioneering architect, is often celebrated as the father of Tropical Architecture. He, however, never used that term, although his influence is still defining design in such climates today. Bawa’s own home in Colombo is a must-see for any architecture fan, run by the Bawa Foundation as a house museum since his passing. The building consists of four small cottages stitched together in an unassuming cul-de-sac, and appears to expand and retract as you walk through. Bawa’s enchanting home includes original artefacts, which he collected throughout his lifetime both from creative friends as well as on his many travels. They still adorn the walls exactly as he had placed them. Open-to-sky courtyards let the monsoon rains fall directly into the living spaces, one of his many principles of building in the tropics. Upstairs, his bedroom can be rented for a night’s stay. For full immersion in Bawa’s lifestyle, his country estate Lunuganga – also run by the foundation and managed by Teardrop Hotels – is only a 2-hour drive away and bookable for overnight stays.